Posted on August 29, 2026
Puffin Profile, Dyrhólaey, IcelandI’ve never been to Rome and have no idea what Romans do, but I have been to Iceland enough to know that when in Iceland, you photograph puffins. So, despite years of proclaiming that I never photograph anything that moves, in Iceland earlier this month I was able to (temporarily) soften my rigid stance.
We were in Iceland to photograph the total solar eclipse. Traveling to Iceland to witness an event that requires clear skies is an act of faith, and though Don Smith and I did our best to remind our workshop students that the eclipse we’re most likely to witness was the actual eclipse eclipsed by clouds, we all remained optimistic about our eclipse chances right up until the bitter, overcast end.
But that eclipse disappointment happened on the workshop’s first day—we still had a week and a half to wring the best from Iceland’s rugged landscape. Our itinerary included geothermal features (geysers, steam vents), sea stacks, the glaciers and volcanic craters of the rugged Highlands region, and waterfalls—lots of waterfalls.
While puffins were never part of our itinerary, I couldn’t help notice during the workshop orientation how many workshop students inquired about the opportunity to see them. But when our guide explained that there were no puffin locations near our route, and we were almost to the end of the puffin viewing window anyway, everyone understood and the thought faded to the background.
Despite the fact that no one held Don, Kaspars (our guide), or me responsible for missing the eclipse (despite a valiant effort that took us all the way into Westfjords, it turns out virtually no one in Iceland got to see it), we three guides felt a strong desire to make up for everyone’s disappointment. So when Kaspars mentioned that we could spend our second planned Iceland Highlands day on the South Coast instead, where, among other things, puffins might be found, he had our attention.
Kaspars qualified his suggestion with the warning that there was no guarantee of puffins because Iceland had reached the point in their season where puffins are no longer reliably at any location, but given the other South Coast opportunities this detour added, and our desire to make up for the lost eclipse, we decided to go for it.
After our daily waterfall fix (let me go on record as saying that there can’t be any place on Earth with a greater quantity, and variety, of waterfalls than Iceland), we pulled into Dyrhólaey a little before 5 p.m. Unlike many of the locations so far, Dyrhólaey was quite familiar. In fact, it’s the home of one of the most unforgettable northern lights extravaganzas I’ve seen in my many Iceland visits.
Wings of Angels, Aurora Above Dyrhólaey, IcelandBefore starting the short walk out to the cliffs where the puffins frequently hang out, I held my breath and hoped for at least one puffin for the group to photograph. Because I’d been here a million times and never photograph wildlife (right?), I almost left my camera bag in our Sprinter. I’m so glad I came to my senses and didn’t fall victim to my stubborn adherence to arbitrary rules.
I didn’t have to hold my breath long, because just a short distance down the trail we encountered a pair of smiling tourists who exclaimed that we’ll have no problem finding puffins, describing exactly where to find the best viewing.
Old habits die hard. When we reached the cliffs and found them teeming with puffins as promised, my first inclination was to approach the scene like the landscape photographer I am. I set up my tripod and hunted for a position that would allow me to photograph one or more nearby puffins with the Reynisdrangar sea stacks this area is known for in the background. Each frame carefully framed and focused, it only took about 10 minutes to jettison the tripod, put my camera on fast-continuous, and just start firing.
One hour, and 1400 pictures, later, the puffins started to thin and everyone agreed that we had more than enough puffin images to occupy us for months. Since I had no real frame of reference, I relied on the reaction of the people in my group, and other photographers nearby, to determine that what we’d experienced was truly special. Not only were there hundreds of puffins surrounding us on the cliffs, many were within 10 feet, and frequently even closer than that. At one point I overheard a photographer exclaim to his buddy, “This is the easiest wildlife shoot I’ve ever done in my life!” Me too.
Of course this was also the most difficult wildlife shoot I’d ever done in my life. But whatever—it was a genuine blast. I surprised myself with how quickly I started to feel comfortable sans tripod, and despite working at 20+ frames per second, it wasn’t long before I keyed in on certain subjects, behaviors, and framing enough to spend most of my time following an actual plan.
In hindsight, I realize that I’ve just scratched the surface of bird photography’s many challenges—these beautiful little creatures were literally, uhhhh, sitting ducks. Yes, they did move around far more than my landscape subjects, but I also fully appreciate that photographing birds in flight is an order of magnitude harder. (And I have a few soft images to prove it.)
Are puffins destined to become my gateway bird, opening the door to my future as a bird photographer? Unlikely. But if nothing else, this experience was a great reminder to never let myself be bound by rules, and that the most insidious rules of all are the ones we impose on ourselves.
(Yes, these are two crops of the same frame)
Category: Dyrhólaey, Iceland, puffins, Sony 100-400 GM, Sony a7R VI Tagged: Dyrhólaey, Iceland, nature photography, puffins
Posted on December 19, 2023
At its best, still photography reveals aspects of the world invisible to, or overlooked by, human vision. In nature photography, we create these visual revelations when we use an extremely fast exposure to freeze the intricate detail of a lightning bolt that’s a memory before our brain registers it. Or when we dial up a long exposure to turn pinpoint stars into symmetrical arcs that reveal Earth’s rotation.
As a lifelong admirer of the night sky, I’m a huge fan of the camera’s ability to see in the dark far better than I can, extracting stars and celestial color too faint for my eyes. This is possible because cameras can accumulate light over an extended period, and because the camera’s ability to “see” color is less dependent on the amount of light it captures than the human eye is.
No subject more clearly demonstrates the camera’s light gathering ability better than the Milky Way. A relatively faint ribbon of light in even the darkest sky, a high ISO (extremely light sensitive), large aperture, multi-second exposure (30 seconds or less to minimize star streaking) brings to life the exquisite color and detail of starlight infused with interstellar dust and gas.
This ability to accumulate light also helps the camera extract color from apparent darkness. But just as important to the camera’s light gathering advantage over the human eye is the way it does it. The human eye uses a collaboration of rods and cones to collect light, with the rods doing the heavy lifting in low light, pulling enough monochrome information for us to discern shapes, while providing little help with color and depth. The cones that complete the scene with color and depth information require much more light to do their job. But a digital sensor, though blind to depth, captures photons using tiny photosites specifically designed to discern color.
With the first DSLRs, way back in the early 2000s, successful night photography required help from external light, like light painting with artificial light (which I never do) or moonlight (which I did all the time). But sensor technology has improved steadily over the years, not just the sensors’ resolution, but their light capturing ability too. Today I don’t hesitate photographing dark sky, the darker the better. Nevertheless, despite many years photographing the night sky, it wasn’t until 5 years ago that I got to photograph an aurora.
In January of 2019 Don Smith and I had traveled to Iceland to scout for a future photo workshop. We chose winter to ensure the longest, darkest nights for the best chance to view an aurora. Having seen thousand of pictures of the northern (and southern) lights, I believed I had an idea of what to expect, but I had no idea. No. Idea.
Before I start raving about the camera’s ability to photograph an aurora’s unseen color, let me just say that no picture can do justice to the experience of witnessing an aurora in person. I’m not talking about the green, horizon-hugging glow that lucky high-latitude Lower-48 residents enjoy from time to time (that’s still worth staying up and freezing for, BTW), but an actual sky-spanning dance of light beams, waves, and swirls. Rivaled only (in my book) by a total solar eclipse and a brilliant comet, a brilliant aurora display might possibly be the most beautiful thing you’ll ever witness in Nature.
But, despite lacking the dynamics of personal aurora experience, a camera does do better than the eye in one important aurora aspect: color. That’s because to the naked eye, many aurora displays aren’t bright enough to engage the cones and appear monochrome to our eyes. A camera, on the other hand, reveals auroras in all their kaleidoscopic glory. And though color in an extremely strong aurora is indeed plainly visible to the unaided eye, no matter how strong the aurora, the camera will always “see” more color than we will.
Since that first visit, I’ve returned to Iceland most winters, and have viewed many beautiful northern lights shows. Each was unique and beautiful in its own way, but hold a gun to my head and ask me to pick a favorite, and I think it would be a tie between back-to-back nights early this year (January)—first at Kirkjufell, then at Dyrhólaey on the South Coast. The Kirkjufell night was special because it featured a spectacular display above an Iceland icon. The Dyrhólaey show, while lacking the instantly recognizable foreground of the previous night, was even brighter and more expansive, at times spanning the entire sky.
I blogged about both nights earlier this year:
The image I’m sharing today is another one from the Dyrhólaey night. With our eyes we could actually see a little of the green, but not the red. And as beautiful as this image is, even with my 12 – 24 lens at its widest, it didn’t come close to capturing the entire horizon-spanning display.
One more thing
When there’s not enough light for visible color, colors in the night sky become the photographer’s processing choice. For my Milky Way images, that’s mostly a matter of adjusting my white balance in Lightroom until sky color feels right. I find a lot of other photographers’ night images too cyan for my taste, and if you look at my older night images, you’ll see that I used to skew them fairly blue. But in my recent night images, I’ve gone for something closer to black with just a hint of blue/violet, which is what I’ve done with the background sky in this image.
The color of the northern lights is similarly subjective, and starts with the color temperature my camera’s auto white balance chooses. Since I don’t have as much experience photographing auroras as I do the Milky Way, I’ve started identifying northern lights images that I like, taken by other photographers, then try to adjust my own images’ white balance in Lightroom to something that comes close to that. But looking at the gallery below, with greens that skew toward yellow (warmer), and some that skew toward blue (cooler), it’s clear that this is still a work in progress. But it does appear that I’m moving a toward cooler aurora images. And believe it or not, none of my northern lights images have any saturation added because they don’t need it—just giving the scene a little more light than my eyes see is all that’s necessary to bring out this eye-popping color.
Click any image to scroll through the gallery LARGE
Category: aurora, Dyrhólaey, Iceland, northern lights, Sony 12-24 f/2.8 GM, Sony a7R V Tagged: aurora, Dyrhólaey, Iceland, nature photography, northern lights
Posted on May 1, 2023
Today it’s possible to open an app on your computer, type in a few descriptive terms, and faster than you can take a sip of coffee your very own beautiful image will appear. No frozen extremities, missed meals, or sleep deprivation required. What could possibly be better than that?
I’ll tell you what’s better: the frozen extremities, missed meals, and sleep deprivation necessary to witness Nature at its best, and to remind me that the best things in life are even better when a little sacrifice is involved. There’s simply no substitute for the multi-sensory opportunity to worship with nature—coming away with a beautiful image is just icing on the cake of the experience of simply being there.
Icing this winter morning’s cake involved more than a little effort, as well as a good degree of physical discomfort. Dyrhólaey, on Iceland’s South Coast, has a network of short but steep trails leading to broad vistas of rugged lava cliffs, a long black sand beach, several sea stacks (including distant Reynisdrangar), and lots of open sea. (It’s also the location of a truly epic aurora show about 10 days earlier, but that’s a different story.)
Since this was a week or so into a workshop (the second of two Iceland workshops Don Smith and I did this past January), and Dyrhólaey is so spread out, after the brief location orientation everyone had scattered quickly to search out their own scene, leaving me to my own devices. Iceland’s interminable gray winter twilight was already underway when we arrived, but actual sunrise was still an hour away, so there was no real rush.
This morning’s temperature (F) and wind (MPH) were both in the teens, but I was bolstered by multiple layers covering virtually every square inch of delicate California skin. Not immediately drawn to any one scene, I was quite content to wander the trails, taking in the view. On my travels I connected with as many in the group as possible, keeping my eyes open for potential images along the way. Eventually I found myself atop the highest point, enjoying a bird’s eye view of the violent surf’s relentless pounding. I stood there at least 15 minutes, completely mesmerized by waves arriving from all possible directions, each one reacting to the rocks a little differently than the waves preceding it.
This surf was on a different scale than anything I’d seen in California or Hawaii—more violent, and clearly more determined to punish anything in its path. Each wave exploded impressively onto the rocks, but occasionally just the right combination of size and direction resulted in a nuclear explosion that mushroomed far enough skyward to obscure some of the sky.
While the sky lacked clouds to add visual interest and catch sunrise color, I recognized the potential for a sunstar when the sun finally crested the horizon. With this thought in mind, I managed to pull myself away from my perch and move along the cliff’s edge, identifying and organizing the various elements for a possible composition.
I knew the sun would be the strongest background element, and decided that putting it on the right of my frame would provide the best foreground. Widening my frame to 27mm allowed me to balance the sun with Reynisdrangar (the 3 sea stacks in the distance). With that framework in place, I moved around looking for the best combination of close foreground that would also allow me to include the large rock with the greatest potential for a big wave. Since the sky wasn’t especially compelling, and I really liked the surf and rocks below me, I minimized the sky in favor of the much more interesting foreground.
Hoping for a sunstar, I stopped down to f/20, which had the added benefit of extra depth of field cushion. I focused on the large grassy patch. With my composition in place, I just stood back and waited for big waves, clicking each time one reached its apex. The biggest waves were few and far between, but I crossed my fingers for one to land while the sun was still on the horizon.
Turns out I got one really big wave—not the biggest I’d seen, but big enough. And as you can see, haze on the horizon meant the sunstar never materialized, but it also kept the sun from washing out the sky’s rich gold sunrise hues. (I actually think I like it better without the sunstar, which might have overpowered the rest of the scene.)
This is probably not a picture that will make me rich, but I like it not only for whatever aesthetic value it might possess, but also for the reminder of this beautiful Iceland morning, the sacrifices we nature photographers make in pursuit of our passion, and for the way my effort to assemble the scene’s disparate elements into a coherent scene actually came together (never a sure thing).
Click any image to scroll through the gallery LARGE
Category: Dyrhólaey, Iceland, Sony 24-105 f/4 G, Sony a7R V Tagged: Dyrhólaey, Iceland, nature photography
Posted on February 20, 2023
I just wrapped up what was no doubt the most intense work/travel stretch of my 17 years leading photo workshops. It started the second week of January with 3 weeks in Iceland leading 2 workshops with Don Smith (with no break in between). After the long flight home (that’s a story for different day), I had just one day to recover before driving nine hours to Death Valley (still very much jet lagged) for another workshop that started the next day. Returning from Death Valley, I actually had a few days to lick my wounds before heading off to Yosemite for my Horsetail Fall workshop (with crowds that make it pretty intense by itself).
I have no one to blame but myself for this schedule (it seemed like such a good idea at the time). And I won’t say that I’m not looking forward to a few weeks off before my next workshop. But honestly, I’d do it all again in a heartbeat. And I should also say that despite appearances to the contrary, I’m actually home far more than I’m on the road, and when I’m home, I’m really home (unless I’m at Starbucks, without a lot of places I’m expected to be. So don’t feel too sorry for me.
The people I get to share my workshops with are constant source of energy and joy that sustains me through these difficult stretches. But today I’m (selfishly) thinking about the bucket-list worthy sights and locations my frequently nomadic life has afforded me. It’s an exercise I try to go through regularly to avoid taking my many blessings for granted.
I’m thinking about this right now because I returned just a few days ago from another Horsetail Fall workshop, where I could be at serious risk of taking for granted a truly beautiful and unique spectacle that I’ve seen literally dozens of times, but that is a genuine bucket list experience for so many others.
One way I try to avoid taking my blessing for granted is to revisit my annual Highlights galleries: 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022. I love creating these galleries not only because the process reminds me of the sights I’ve seen over the past year, but also because it gets me excited for the still unknown sights in the upcoming year. And each time I revisit them, I’m reminded of how lucky I was to have been witness to such beauty. Invariably, after opening a gallery, I’ll find myself thinking, oh wow, surely this was my best year (not necessarily my best photographs—just my best year for the things I got to see), then I go on to another year and have exactly the same thought.
Another thing this exercise makes pretty clear is the things in Nature that excite me most. I’ve always believed that we each make our best pictures when we follow our heart to the subjects we love most. For me that’s locations to which I feel a personal connection, like Yosemite and Grand Canyon, and natural phenomena like weather and all things celestial. Not so coincidently, these are also the subjects I most love studying and understanding.
For the longest time I would say the most beautiful sight I’d ever witnessed was a comet—I just couldn’t imagine anything matching it. Then in 2017 I witnessed a total solar eclipse and that list became two. Then (I bet you know where I’m going here) I saw the northern lights. So now my most-beautiful list is three.
I’ve seen the northern lights many times since that first experience, but that first one always stood out as the best. But Nature always seems to be trying to top itself, and this year it finally managed. The first Iceland workshop group got two consecutive nights with spectacular northern lights shows—the first night at least matching my previous “best,” the second night topping it.
Because I blogged about that night a few weeks ago, I won’t go into all the details. The image I shared in that earlier post was more of a spontaneous capture away from the best scene, simply because the display was so spectacular. The image I’m sharing today is the scene I spent most of the night pointing at because it had the best combination of foreground and aurora display. The dancing lights changed so much from one minute to the next that I could pluck any one of dozens of images from this scene, label it “best,” and get no argument.
Category: Dyrhólaey, Iceland, Sony 12-24 f/2.8 GM, Sony a7R V Tagged: aurora, Dyrhólaey, Iceland, nature photography, northern lights
