Eloquent Images by Gary Hart
Insight, information, and inspiration for the inquisitive nature photographer
Peak Color
Posted on January 9, 2024
Twin Peaks, Mt. Tasman and Aoraki / Mt. Cook, New Zealand
Sony α1
Sony 24 – 104 f/4 G
ISO 100
f/11
.6 seconds
The first time I visited New Zealand (way back in 1995), I was surprised not just by the number of mountains, but also by their size. New Zealand’s mountains reminded me very much of the Eastern Sierra peaks I visit every year for the way their serrated profiles tower above the surrounding landscape. And while the east-side view of the Sierra Crest is truly spectacular, the New Zealand mountain experience also includes glaciers, rainforests, and an assortment of massive, glacier-carved turquoise lakes that are so pristine, locals drink straight from them.
It’s no coincidence that Don Smith and I concentrate our annual New Zealand winter workshop in the Southern Alps, the backbone of the South Island and home to all 20 of New Zealand’s 10,000+ foot peaks and all of its glacial lakes. We choose winter not just for the Milky Way’s prominence in the night sky, but also to maximize the snow on the Southern Alps.
Fox Glacier on the South Island’s West Coast is the farthest north our groups get. Our stated reason for being here is our heli-hike on Fox Glacier (we helicopter onto the glacier for a guided hike and an intimate view of its crevasses, caves, pools, and seracs), we’ve come to appreciate many other features of this segment of our workshop—specifically, the (aptly named) Blue Pools as well as the various waterfalls of Haast Pass, and the spectacular views of New Zealand’s two tallest peaks, Mt. Tasman (on the left in this image; 11,473 feet) and Aoraki / Mt. Cook (12,218 feet).
Dark Sky Dreams, Lake Matheson, New Zealand
Our Lake Matheson hike during our stay in Fox Glacier (also the name of the town where we stay) is a particular highlight because of its mirror reflection of Tasman and Aoraki/Cook. But on our last morning in Fox Glacier, we photograph sunrise on the two peaks from Fox Glacier Vista, an underrated vantage point that’s a great way to wrap up our stay.
Given all the sights we see throughout the 10 days of this workshop, it’s easy to overlook this brief stop before our long drive to Aoraki / Mt. Cook National Park on the other side of the Southern Alps (less than 30 miles as the crow flies, but nearly 300 (breathtaking) miles as the Mercedes Sprinter Van drives). But the view here is nice, even during an ordinary sunrise, and always worth the stop.
The sunrise on our Fox Glacier departure morning in 2022 was anything but ordinary. We always depart for this shoot expecting a nice shoot, but usually my mind is more on the long drive ahead and I’m content to stand back an drink in the view. But this morning we could tell from the instant we arrived that the ingredients were in place for something truly special: Right at our feet, a frosty glaze covered the meadow and spread all the way to the trees, and in the distance, layers of broken clouds hovered above the peaks, which in the crystal clear air appeared etched against the horizon.
Read about the science behind sunrise/sunset color
Though it was still fairly dark, hints of color were already seeping into the clouds behind the Southern Alps. This was Don’s and my first visit following two years lost to COVID, and I immediately saw that the vista we knew so well had been expanded and upgraded, something I initially found disorienting. While the rest of the group rushed to set up at the most obvious vantage point, I took a couple of minutes to explore along the short trail to make sure we weren’t missing something new, before returning confident that we were indeed in the best place. (I was so focused on the view during this little jaunt that I failed to notice a small piece of jutting root that aggressively reached out to send me sprawling in the dirt—my skinned knees and bruised ego were only slightly comforted by the knowledge that no one actually witnessed my face-plant.)
In these situations, when spectacular conditions rival the scene I came to photograph, I try not to get too cute with my compositions. If there’s an obvious complex option that doesn’t distract from the natural beauty of the moment, I’ll take it, but generally I prefer to let the scene speak for itself by keeping my composition as simple as possible.
But that doesn’t mean I don’t pay attention to the entire scene. In this case we were limited by a fence between us and the meadow, and since I already knew the view, I concentrated on simple framing. With the combination of matching snow-capped Tasman and Aoraki bookending the closer Craig Peak, and parallel horizontal layers throughout the scene, it didn’t take a rocket scientist to identify an opportunity for what I call “aggressive symmetry.” The pair of larger foreground trees, while not perfectly in balance with the rest of the frame, were close enough to symmetrically arranged that I was pleased with their (unavoidable) inclusion.
Given the way the color was progressing as the sun brightened behind the mountains, I worked out my composition long before it peaked, clicking every few seconds while saying to myself each time, surely this must be maximum color. But it just kept intensifying—the thrill of witnessing it was matched only by the thrill of listening to the rest of the group react to what we were seeing.
As I clicked, I couldn’t help think that this was turning out to one of those sunrises (or sunsets) with color so vivid that I know people viewing the images won’t believe they’re real. Fortunately, from sunrises/sunsets to wildflowers to auroras, photographers know that there’s nothing subtle about color in Nature, and that when Mother Nature wants to, she really can dial the vivid up past the point of credibility. The best way to describe these moments is that to me it feels like the atmosphere possesses a physical component that penetrates my skin and pretty much everything else it touches until I feel like the entire world is actually humming with color.
You never know when Nature’s little (or big) surprises will happen, but their possibility is the thing gets me out of bed in winter darkness, keeps me out well past dinnertime, and makes all the cold, rain, snow, or whatever other hardships Mother Nature wants to throw my way, tolerable.
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Sunrise / Sunset Color
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Oh, What a Night…
Posted on July 17, 2018
Dark Sky, Lake Matheson, New Zealand
Sony a7S II
Rokinon 24mm f/1.4
30 seconds
F/1.4
ISO 12800
(Jump to the bottom for a “how-to” and my starlight photography exposure recipe)
Five photographers followed bouncing headlamps through the chilly dark. Even in midday the trail through the dense rainforest surrounding Lake Matheson has a twilight feel; on a moonless winter night like this, the path becomes downright cave-like. Soon our footsteps were in sync, each tap broken by a beat of eerie silence. For me, the solitary experience at the front of the line was simultaneously serene and disconcerting, a feeling enhanced by occasional rustling and primal cries from the primitive world outside radius of my light.
We were midway through the second of the back-to-back New Zealand Winter photo workshops Don Smith and I did in 2018. Just a couple of hours earlier the entire group had completed the nearly 3-mile loop in daylight. So striking was the sunset reflection of Mt. Tasman and Mt. Cook on that hike, that when we looked up after dinner and saw stars, a few of us hardcore night shooters couldn’t resist returning to the lake to photograph the Milky Way above the peaks.
Rather than hike all the way out there, we reasoned that we could satisfy our objective with a relatively short walk to Jetty Viewpoint, the closest view of the lake and mountains, less than a quarter of the way along the loop. Given the spur-of-the-moment nature of our adventure, I hadn’t done my usual (obsessive) plotting of the Milky Way’s position before bundling up and heading our to the lake. I knew only that it would be more or less vertical, in the general direction of the peaks.
What I hadn’t fully accounted for is how much higher in the sky as the Milky Way is in New Zealand. So unfortunately, by the time the five of us arrived at Jetty Viewpoint, we found the Milky Way was so high that capturing the bright galactic core and its reflection required a vertical composition. And it had rotated so far north that including the Milky Way and the peaks required a horizontal composition. After trying a few versions of those either/or compositions, we decided that since the reflection was the real star of the show, we may as well just continue another 20 minutes to the Lake Matheson’s best view, Reflection Island.
The shear volume of stars in the pure New Zealand darkness is mesmerizing, but it’s disorienting to look up at night and not see a single familiar constellation . Once we’d settled in at Reflection Island, I spent the time waiting exposures to complete just wandering my gaze about the foreign sky.
A camera can “see” much better in the dark than we can, a capability that only continues to improve. For many years my night photography was limited by technology to moonlight only, but the low-light capability of the newest cameras has opened the door to a world that’s been invisible to the naked eye. Combining a modern camera that captures clean high ISO images with a fast lens not only enables moonless night photography, it pulls unseen wonders from the darkness.
I only use my Sony a7SII and Rokinon 24mm f/1.4 lens when photographing extreme dark skies, but when I do, I never cease to be blown away by what they “see.” Packing for four weeks in winter without exceeding the airline’s weight limits is difficult. But anticipating the opportunity to photograph the Southern Hemisphere night sky, I bit the bullet and added my dedicated night photography gear to my camera bag. Every time an exposure completed, I couldn’t take my eyes off the image on my LCD. As saturated with stars as the sky appeared, each image revealed far more stars than were visible to my eyes, and the brightest stars stood out like an approaching locomotive.
A quick check of my astronomy app told me that the bright star burning a hole in the sky above the trees on the right is Achernar, well known Down Under but new to me. Slightly brighter than magnitiude .5 (the lower the number, the brighter the star), it’s the ninth brightest star in the night sky—the Achernar photons that landed on my sensor started their Earthward journey nearly 140 years ago.
The Magellanic Clouds (satellite galaxies gravitationally bound to the Milky Way but not visible in the Northern Hemisphere) that were faint fuzzy blurs to my eyes took on actual shapes. And while I couldn’t fit the mountains and both of the Magellanic Clouds in my frame, I was able to included the Small Magellanic Cloud in this image.
More exciting than the volume of stars revealed by my camera was the spectacular reflection it pulled from the seemingly black void of the lake’s surface. This ability to view beauty hidden from my eyes by darkness is the best part of night photography.
Starlight exposure made simple
Based on many years experience teaching starlight photography (not to be confused with moonlight photography), I’ve come up with what I think is the simplest approach to the most frequently asked night photography question: “What exposure settings should I use?”
The problem is, there isn’t a single set of ISO, f-stop, and shutter speed settings you can plug in for great results because the setting you use (and the results you get) depend on your equipment. Starlight photography is all about capturing light, the more the better. But as good as today’s camera technology is, successful night photography is still about making compromises. As you try to maximize the light reaching your sensor, you’ll need to manage these exposure compromises:
- Shutter speed: Star motion is a function of the time the shutter is open, the focal length, and the direction your lens points—the faster the shutter speed, wider the lens, and closer to the poles (due north or south) you’re composed, the less star motion you’ll record. As much as we like pinpoint stars, I’ve always felt that getting enough light is more important than perfect pinpoints. Your compromise comes as you try to decide how much motion you can live with. My drop-dead shutter speed that I won’t exceed is 30 seconds.
- F-stop: Sharpness and distortion, especially on the edges, becomes a concern when any lens is wide open. With some lenses it’s a livable problem, with others you’ll probably want to stop-down a stop or two. A starlight f-stop rule of thumb I follow is that (assuming a current camera with good high ISO capability) at f/4, the best you’ll be able to hope for is silhouettes; at f/2.8, you can probably get decent but dark landscape detail; making the scene significantly brighter than your eyes see (like this image) usually requires f/2 or faster. Given that, I like to shoot starlight at f/1.4 (hence my dedicated night lenses), and just live with slightly less than perfect quality in the corners.
- ISO: Noise is the threshold that most limits our night efforts. If we didn’t have to deal with noise, we could push our ISO as far as necessary to eliminate star motion and lens flaws. High ISO noise varies a lot with the camera—some cameras struggle mightily beyond ISO 1600, others deliver very usable results at ISO 12800 or even higher. As a general rule, the larger the sensor, and the fewer the megapixels, the better the high ISO performance (larger, farther apart photosites mean more light gathering and less heat). So an APS-C sensor will usually yield cleaner high ISO images than a 4/3 sensor (Olympus and Panasonic), and a full frame sensor will yield cleaner high ISO images than an APS-C sensor. This is by no means an absolute—today’s 40+ megapixel sensors are much better at high ISOs than yesterday’s 12 megapixel sensors, and some of today’s high resolution sensors (for example, the Sony a7RIII) are far superior to contemporary sensors with lower resolution. My night camera is the 12 megapixel Sony a7SII. Regardless of the camera, and I can’t emphasize this too much, is to know your camera and how far you can push your ISO and still yield usable results. One more thing: because high ISO performance decreases significantly with shutter speed, base your high ISO evaluations on long shutter speeds, 15-30 seconds.
Understanding these compromises, you’re ready for my starlight-exposure-made-simple axiom: Give the scene as much light as you can without ruining the image. In other words, for the most light possible, use the longest shutter speed, widest aperture, and highest ISO that gives you results you can live with.
Taking this approach doesn’t mean that I don’t vary my exposure settings. Once I’ve settled on a composition, I use a variety exposure-setting combinations. Not only does this give me as many options as possible at processing time, it’s also an opportunity better understand my cameras’ and lenses’ limitations to learn how far I can push the exposure threshold next time.
Experience the New Zealand Night Sky for Yourself
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New Zealand After Dark
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Eloquent Images by Gary Hart 